Close Encounters of the Wild Kind

© 2005 Gary L. Benton

We've all seen the action movie where the hero is spending the night in the woods and he is forced to fight for his life against a pack of wild hungry wolves. At some point in the movie our hero wrestles with the wolves and eventually saves his camp as well as his life. While this makes for a very exciting movie, it's not very realistic from a wildlife point of view. I would suspect you are much safer from a wild animal attack in the field hunting than you are driving down to the corner supermarket. While animal attacks do happen, they are very rare, unless the injured party has in some way allowed the attack to happen in the first place.

Most animal related injuries (bites, cuts, bruises, or other blunt trauma) are often due to the injured person not understanding wild life. I have seen more than one person take an injured, but wild animal home to care for it, only to be injured at some point in the process. Granted most of these animals were small game (raccoons, opossums, squirrels, or rabbits), but wild animals are just that . . . wild. I suggest if you see an injured or sick animal you contact your government wildlife agency and let them do the rescuing. Most of the time wild animal injuries or attacks are direct results of the human doing something wrong, though there have been cases where a healthy animal has behaved in a way that is not typical. Additionally, there are those other “critters” we share the field with that are known to bite and I'm speaking of snakes. Most of us, if we spend enough time in the woods, will eventually discover a snake along the trail or in our camp.

Snakes, is a word spoken when I was young that was right up there with the boogieman. I was especially scared of the name of one local poisonous snake, the Copperhead. Over the years though, I have learned that snakes do not really live up to the terrible reputation they have acquired. I have also discovered that most snakes will avoid you (like most animals), if they have a choice. If you make some noise when you move the snake, if possible, will move away and you'll never see it. Most bites occur when a person places a foot, leg, arm or hand near a snake that may be cornered. However, keep in mind, less than ten percent of the snakes in the world are dangerous to man and so even if you're bitten the odds are it will not be from a poisonous snake. But, if you are bitten most doctors will suggest you,

Do not let the injured person drink any alcohol

Do not cut the wound in any manner (this used to be suggested)

Do not suck the poison out (this used to be done by mouth and is not suggested)

Do not use a tourniquet (also suggested before, but not now)

Do not use ice on the injured area

DO wash and clean the bite with soap and water, immobilize the bite, treat for shock, and immediately seek medical attention. Statistics show that less than one half of one percent of people bitten by a poisonous snake will die from the bite, even if left untreated.

But, what about other large animal threats in the field?

Bear attacks are in my opinion serious situations to deal with, despite the fact they are rarely experienced by most folks. I lived for over six years in Alaska and only saw one wild grizzly in the field, and that was during a caribou hunt (I backed off and left the area). I am not saying they are not there or a possible threat, but use some common sense in the woods to avoid them. Unless I am hunting I will carry a cowbell and the noise seems to keep bears away from me. Most wild animals will avoid you, if they know you are coming, though there are exceptions to this. I think most bears are a bit like humans in that their behavior (mood) reflects what is going on around them. I suspect that any healthy animal may attack if cornered with no way out, or as psychologist call it, fight or flight. But, keep in mind, bears are short tempered and should be taken as a serious threat when seen in the wild. Always leave a way out for any wild animal, but what if you encounter a bear in the field?

The Canadian Ministry of Environment suggests,

Keep your campsite clean, with garbage disposed of and fresh food placed out of reach (I throw a rope over a limb, pull the food up at least ten feet out of reach, and use a solid container). A good place for your food is the trunk of your car, but never in your tent.

Try to always travel with others. The more folks along the less likely an attack will occur, but it can still happen.

Make noise, especially if you are alone (unless hunting), and you can do this by using a cowbell, singing, talking, clapping your hands and so on. This is important in thick forests, where you've seen bear sign or fresh tracks.

Keep your eyes open for bear tracks, freshly killed animals, and if you smell a musky strong odor be very cautious. Additionally, avoid streams during salmon spawning and be extra careful around berry patches and thick brush.

Never go near a fresh kill, because the bear may be near and want to guard his hard earned meal.

If you do spot a bear, leave the area very slowly and do not run. Bears may associate your running with game (dinner) and chase you from instinct. Never get between a momma bear and her cubs, never.

Never feed the bear food so you can get some good bear photographs or so you can get closer to the animal. This is both dumb and dangerous.

If you come face to face with a bear, do not make direct eye contact with the beast, they might take that as a threat.

Remember to make noise, use a bell, clap your hands, scream, sing, or throw rocks.

Do not approach a bear at any time. Keep in mind not to run or try to climb a tree, the bear can run and climb faster than you can.

Black bears might back off if challenged, but if you are attacked you should fight, scream, yell, and be aggressive. Once again, it depends on the bear as to whether they will back off or not.

Kerry Gunther of the Bear Management Office in Yellowstone Park suggests you back away and try to make yourself inconspicuous when you encounter any bear. He further adds if you're facing a grizzly bear, “Stand your ground. If the grizzly hits you, fall and play dead.”

If you are attacked by a bear,

Drop to the ground and make yourself as small as you can by rolling into a ball.

Clasp your hands over the back of your neck and remain still (if you are wearing a backpack keep it on to protect your head and neck.

Now, we share the woods and fields with other animals besides bears and snakes. Let's look at cougars, moose, other large cats, coyotes and wolves, and see how we can avoid attacks. While some of you may think that each of these animals would need a different approach to avoid an attack and in some situations they may, however there are some common sense items that are common.

Never approach a wild animal.

Never tease, threaten, or run toward a wild animal.

Never abuse a wild animal or cause it pain.

Never attempt to pet any wild animal, but especially large ones (bigger injuries can occur).

Never feed a wild animal or attempt to “take care” of it if injured.

Always back off slowly, if you unexpectedly meet an animal on the trail, and move away from the animal allowing it room to run from you if it's cornered.

If you happen to suddenly encounter any large animal on the trail, you should try to stay calm (may be hard to do depending on the animal you discover), stand still at first (may be hard to do as well), do not run (running will most likely be your first thought), talk very softly to the animal, and back away from it slowly. Remember not make any sudden moves. If the animal sees you as either a threat or a source of food it may attack, but most are scared of mankind. So, now we know what to do if we meet a wild animal, what else what do we need to know about some of them.

Cougars are very large members of the cat family and while their attacks are rare they do happen. According to the Canadian Ministry of Environment, it seems this animal may be attracted to children due to their high-pitched voices, smaller size (food source size perhaps), and irregular movements. It is suspected that cougars are not able to properly identify children as humans and they may think youngsters are prey. Our neighbors up north suggest,

Have children play in groups, the more the safer.

Keep an eye on the kids at all times.

If you have a dog, keep it near the children. A dog can see, smell, and hear the big cat way before we can do so and it will act as an early warning system.

Keep a radio or portable T.V. playing to create noise.

Keep the kids near during hours of darkness.

Many cougar attacks could be prevented if you follow the same simple guidelines I have used for moving in the field around bears. Make noise, stay in groups, avoid killed prey, and so on. However, never turn your back on a cougar and remain upright at all times. Additionally, do all you can to make yourself look larger and do not try to hide or roll up in a ball, because neither will work effectively. If you are attacked, fight back as hard as you can with whatever you can pick up to show the animal you are not prey. Most cougar attacks are the result of normal predator (after prey) behaviors by the big cat and thus somewhat predictable, but there are exceptions to all rules.

Most of us whole have been up north have seen a moose and they remind me of a cow on stilts. While they may be neat to photograph and watch, I read in the Anchorage Daily News a few years back where a man was killed by a moose on the grounds of a nearby university. Moose are not usually considered to be serious threats of attack by most people, but they have the potential to seriously injure or kill you. While I lived in Alaska , moose were “the biggest attack threat”, or so it seemed at least in my neighborhood. So, what about moose?

Never feed a moose.

Never threaten or tease a moose.

Never get between a cow and calf.

Never allow your dog to chase a moose or harass it.

Never corner a moose around houses, trees, or fenced in yards, it may attack out of fear.

If a moose attacks you, ball up and cover your head. Stay as still as you can and make no quick movements.

Keep in mind if the animals hump is standing up and it's ears are back it may be ready to attack you or is at least scared. If that happens, try to make yourself appear to be larger than you are by raising your arms and extending your fingers, but make NO quick movements.

Bobcats are smaller members of the big cat family and they are somewhat inactive during the winter months. Lynx are another member of the cat family and they are a bit larger than a bobcat, even though the bobcat is considered to be the more aggressive of the two. It is possible to encounter either animal up north, but remember most attacks are simply scratches and clawing, but each have been known to go for the throat of a victim during an attack. So, protect your face and throat if you are attacked by one of these cats. The same precautions and preventative action as suggested for other large predators is recommended.

I saved the wolves and coyotes for last, and on purpose, because I started this article with them. Of all the larger animals we share the woods and fields with the dog family (wolves and coyotes) gets the worse media attention. It is almost impossible to watch a wild western movie, or read an outdoor adventure book, that does not have a vicious wolf attack at some point. While all of this in a movie or book leads to excitement and action, it is basically untrue. I have never, in over thirty years in the field, known of a wolf attacking a healthy man unless cornered. It is almost unheard of for a healthy wolf or coyote to attack a human, but I'm sure if the animal felt threatened or was starving they would attack. But, unlike the movies or in books, strong healthy wolves and coyotes do not attack a man unless there is no other option, because they fear man. Once again the basic precautions and preventative actions as recommended for any large predators are recommended for wolves and coyotes. Make sure you move slowly, back away, and leave the area. Keep in mind to leave the animal a way out and not to corner it.

If you are attacked by an animal and injured, you should the injury with soap and water, then disinfect it. Keep in mind, often it may be a gorge, cut, crushing of a bone, or scratches, that you'll be treating. At times there may be a lot of blood loss, so remember your basic first aid and stop the bleeding first. The results of a bite may be deeper than you suspect and the most serious aspect of the wound may be the risk of infection. Infection is common from animal claws and teeth, which are dirty and may have bits of decayed meat on them. There may also be trauma from being thrown, dragged, pulled, or from impact with an object. If you sustain an animal injury always seek medical attention as soon as possible. Besides the danger from the wound, there is also a possibility of rabies.

Wild animal attacks do happen, but not as often as we'd think. I have spent years hunting, fishing, camping and hiking in the woods, all over the world, and I have yet to be attacked by a large predator. Have I been lucky? I think not, I have always kept my eyes open, made noise (unless hunting), and been prepared for close encounters of the wild kind. Use common sense in the field, stay safe and I'll see you on the trails of North America.

Resources used in this article are from the U.S. National Parks Service, the Bear Management Office in Yellowstone Park , The Canadian Ministry of Environment, as well as the American Medical Association.

Wild Animal Attacks

Anyone can Survive

Wilderness Survival

by: Gary L. Benton

Once lost in the woods, wilderness survival is difficult and the gear you have with you is all you’ll have to help you stay alive. Without gear, a fire, shelter, food and water, or the needed skills, you may very well die.
While this type of survival may be difficult, it can be simple if you use the simple survival approach. Remember, wilderness situations are tricky and so can be many emergency positions, but you can survive with proper outdoor information and it can be learned. A survival kit will help, as does reading information on how to survive in articles, survival tips and just making an effort to learn survival.
Learn what to pack in your survival kit before you venture on an outdoor trek and learn all the tricks and tips you can before leaving home. If you're properly prepared by carrying the proper survival gear, being mentally prepared, and learning all you can, your survival situation may still be rough rough. However, it improves your chances of being rescued alive.

Simple Survival teaches wilderness survival and the Author is a retired Air Force Sergeant. Learn about wilderness survival and update your outdoor knowledge at http://www.simplesurvival.net/

New Survival Book Coming Soon!

Simple Survival: A Family Outdoors Guide

Coming Soon!  From Dancing Fox Publishing

2005 Silver Medal Award for Reference & Guide Books! Now Revised!

Price:  Not official yet, but around $15.00

Award Winning Author: Gary L. Benton

Reviewer: Bill McDonald - MWSA President

"A Straight-forward Must Have Survival Book!"

 

Retired USAF Senior Master Sergeant and survivor expert Gary Benton has written the best outdoor guide for families – bar none, that I have read! “Simple Survival – A Family Outdoors Guide” is more than a book – it is an outdoor resource bible that every family should have a copy of. This is one of those books that you should have in your camping bag along with the tent and other equipment. However, reading it at home before you go off on some outdoor adventure would be a great help when potential situations happen.

This book is more than just a camper's manual as it deals with surviving terrorism as well as how to handle bears, snakes and a host of other events and situations. One chapter which I found to be good sound (and yet simple) advice is called “Ten Rules You Can Survive By!”

Benton has written many articles on survive that have appeared in magazines and on web pages across the globe – in this book he has taken all of his best advice that he has gathered over the years and put it altogether in one handy format.

There is one chapter that deals with the greatest fears that all parents have – having your child get lost in the woods. This is a must read for parents. This information needs to be shared with all their children so they know what to do in the event of getting lost or separated from their parents or the campsite. This is the kind of information that you hope you never need to put into use – but if the situation does happen you will have increased the chances of a more positive outcome if everyone follows the suggestions for survival as outlined in that chapter.

It is evident that Gary Benton knows what he is talking about. When you check on his training records you will find that he has graduated from some of the military's best classes that included surviving in the Artic, water (Sea and Ocean), mountain, and jungle environments. He is the expert and you can trust your life on that!

The MWSA book review committee found that this was the best book on survival skills and advice that they have reviewed. It is in a league of its own! I give this the MWSA's highest recommendation and rating. A MUST BUY FOR ALL AGE GROUPS!

2005 Silver Medal Award for Reference & Guide Books!

How to Select a Good Pocket Knife

Copyright 2010 by Gary L. Benton

Since the being of time, mankind has had both the desire and need for good quality knives. Earlier in history this need was often hunting or protection based. In the beginning knives were usually made of flint or crudely shaped from wood, but as man developed, so did the knife. It was only natural as man discovered and put new metals into use, and the knife blade was soon made of these fresh materials. History has recorded common man-made knives of flint, copper, bronze, and iron. And, of course, the current use of steel has completely changed knives to the point that they are now not only useful but very high in overall quality. Additionally, as new metals and materials are discovered, who knows what the future holds for the development of simple knife.

Most of us who spend time in the outdoors carry at least one knife and many of us carry more than two. I suggest we all carry a sheath knife along with a pocket knife of some sort, so we have a back up or a knife for special uses. Keep in mind neither the sheath skinning knife nor the pocket knife was designed to do the same jobs. Since I covered the skinning knife in an earlier article, let’s look at pocket knives.

There are many different types and styles of “pocket” knives on the market today, but I want to discuss the penknife, jack knife, and multi-purpose knife, all three of which are very common designs. We have all seen them, but do you know the difference and which design is the best one for you? If you are like most outdoors people, you just pick up a knife that happens to attract your eye just as long as it has a good design. But, there is much more to it than simple visual attraction, especially when your life may one day depend on the selected knife.

A jack knife is hinged at one end, but it may have more than one blade at the hinge. I prefer a jack knife with more than one blade and I carry one as a backup in my survival kit. Of course the blades fold into the handle and the knife is safe to carry, either in your pocket on in a small pocket knife sheath. A jack knife is thought to be the most popular type of pocket knife among backpackers, hunters, fishermen, campers, and the military.

The Multi-blade knives (Boy and Girl Scouts knives, Swiss Army knife, and Tool Pocket Kits) are the second most purchased pocketknife design sold today. Usually they have scissors, corkscrew, screwdrivers, can openers, perhaps a wrench, tooth pick, and everything else but the kitchen sink. We have all seen them and I dislike them due to their bulkiness and additional weight. Some of these multi-bladed knives can have dozens of various blades, most of which will never be used in the woods. I know some of these knives are made to very high standards and are of excellent quality, but I still question how that can be with so many attachments. I guess each of us can decide which design is best, but as a frequent backpacker, I refuse to pack weight I cannot benefit from at some point. I want a sharp knife blade, not a tool box.

Another knife, the penknife, is hinged at both ends of the handle, and most have two or three light blades at each end. It is a good knife for those that want more than one type of blade. It was originally designed years ago to cut or shape pen quills that were used in writing at the time. One positive aspect of a pen knife is it is smaller and very light weight when compared to a jack knife, which may vary greatly in size and weight. The penknife is considered my many to be the third most commonly carried pocketknife in the world today.

There are variations of these knife designs with such features as locking blades, one handed opening and closing blades, assisted opening blades, and the list goes on and on. I suspect the design of the common pocketknife will always be under revision and we will see many changes as new materials are developed in the future. I know that in just the last twenty years or so many new designs have been developed and some older designs improved on. Personally, I think it’s great.

Now that you know the difference in the basic pocket knife designs, what kind of blade steel should your knife have? Many knife experts consider S30V the best steel on the market for blade construction, but there are many different grades of steel and at different price ranges. I personally prefer a blade of 420HC, which is stainless steel (this only means it is resistant to rust, but it will rust if not properly cared for), takes a good edge and is easy to sharpen. Different blade steel has different hardness ratings and different edge retention considerations, so look around a bit and compare.

There are a number of different grinding styles used in making knife blades. The most commonly used (of factory made larger knifes) is the semi-hollow grind, which combines a sharp edge with good dependable blade strength. Also, another good blade grind is the flat grind (or sometimes called the V-grind, is used most often in small pocket knives), which produces both good strong blade and a sharp edge (it is easy to sharpen too). There are a few more styles of grinding, but these two are the most common of the factory grinds found in both small and large knives.

In the long run, look for quality steel that will hold a good edge is easy to sharpen, and resists rust. Also, the grinding style of most blades is not of much interest to the typical user and most are factory applied now days anyway, which leaves you with little choice. However, avoid cheap imported knife blades (usually from third world nations) that are of poor quality, potentially dangerous to use, and are basically useless in the field. Nothing is more frustrating to me than a knife that will not hold or take an edge, or is poorly constructed.

The handle of your pocket knife should feel comfortable and solid in your hand. I can assure you, you will not use an uncomfortable knife for a long period of time, unless in an emergency. Rubber and textured handles can give you a better grip in wet or damp conditions, while plastic or composite handles are extremely durable in severe weather conditions. Then again, I like the beauty of natural wood in a handle design. Avoid metal handles in extremely cold weather because the metal will stick to exposed flesh if the temperature drops low enough. Make sure the handle you select is the best one for your intended use and select it for feel and comfort.

Once you have your knife at home the work starts. Like all of your outdoor gear, your knives will require frequent attention if you want it to work when you need it the most.

• Keep the blades of your knife clean and dry, with no fingerprints or moisture on the blades (these can cause stains).

• Wipe the blades down with a light film of oil or silicon, remembering that most stainless steel knifes can both rust and stain if not cared for properly. Use a soft cotton cloth to do this.

• Keep the hinged ends of your knife clean and free of pocket debris or dirt.

• Oil the hinge points with a drop of oil to assure a smooth and easy opening, with a noticeable snap when closing. My grandfather called this the “walks and talks” part of a knife (the blade “walks” open smoothly and “talks” when it loudly snaps shut).

• Keep the blade sharp, dull blades are dangerous to use because they need more force to cut. If you have to force a knife blade when cutting, it either needs sharpening or perhaps you may need an ax or saw instead of a knife.

• Never sharpen your blade on a powered wheel, which will raise the heat of your blade’s steel and ruin the temper of the steel.

• Always cut with the blade of a knife moving away from your body. I have seen many injuries result from poor knife usage or a simple slip of the knife.

• Do not throw your pen knife, multi-blade, or jack knife. They were not designed for throwing.

Most of us who travel in nature’s back yard would never dream of going out without a good quality pocket knife. There are many different designs, sizes, colors, and types on the market today. If you are like most of us, you prefer a good quality pen knife or jack knife, and now you know what to look for when you purchase your next one. Just remember the number of hinge points you want, the construction of the blade, the number of blades, the type of handle you need, and a few simple safety factors.

Picking a good pocket knife is not that difficult, but it does take a little time. I suggest you avoid the cheap, usually imported, models and stick to the better known brands that any sporting good section can suggest.

Food (and Water) for Thought

Food (and Water) for Thought

How to safely store food and water for emergencies

By Gary L. Benton Copyright 2010, All Rights Reserved

One aspect of an emergency a lot of folks rarely consider is the storage of food and water, or even how long they can be safely stored. If an emergency were to occur right this minute, how safe are the canned goods you have in the cupboard? Or, how long could you drink the bottled water you have in the basement? How safe is your food and water supply, or do you even have one? With today’s uncertain political world, it might be to all of our advantages to have at least a two week supply of food and water on hand. For most of us, we could live for two weeks on what is in the freezer, cupboard, or the fridge, but in some homes it might result in a more limited food intake.

In the event of a natural disaster or a terrorist attack, you may have to survive on what is available in your home when it occurs. If an emergency does happen and you still have electrical power, turn on the television to see what local authorities suggest you do—stay or evacuate the area. Additionally you should have a battery or alternate power radio available in case the power goes out, so you can listen to local radio stations to keep informed of suggestions and events. Knowing what to do and when to do it is very important in an emergency situation. If you are instructed to stay you might have to change your lifestyle a bit, but a lot will depend on if you have utilities and the extent the emergency situation limits your movements.

If you stay and have no utilities at all, your first priority in most situations (in extremely cold weather you can stay warm under your blankets, but in hot weather you’ll need to increase your water intake and stay out of direct sunlight if you can) is water. Most folks would think of food as the number one concern, but without water people can die in as little as three days during moderate temperatures (faster in hot weather) and yet a healthy person can go as long as two weeks without food. Water is your first concern, because it is a life sustaining consideration and remember it can be stored prior to emergencies, you have emergency water sources, and most suspected unsafe water can be treated to make it safe to drink.

According to the American Red Cross, water can be stored safely in clean plastic containers, in glass, in fiberglass, or enamel lined metal containers. Make sure any container you use has never been used to store harmful chemicals or materials in it. I would suggest using empty two liter pop bottles for water storage; they even come with a cap to seal the container. You can also purchase commercial water storage containers, plastic drums, or buckets. I prefer those containers with tight lids to keep the water from being spilled and to keep it clean. If you use a sealed container (pop bottle, drum, or other container) label it on the outside with a permanent maker “Drinking Water” and add the date. Keep your water stored in a cool, dry and dark place, rotating it every six months (that is the reason for the date on the container).

In an emergency you can find water in ponds, lakes, rivers, and streams but keep in mind this water is not safe to drink until it has been purified. In your home you can use the water stored in your pipes as well as your hot water heater, just make sure the gas or electrical power is turned off before you drain the water heater. It is important for you to determine where your water comes from too, so you can determine in advance if your water might be safe or not in some emergencies. If your water at home comes from a private well it may still be safe to use (if you live in the country), but in some emergencies (terrorist acts, floods, or tornados) public water sources might not be safe (streams, ponds and rivers may not be safe then either) and may even be the target of some terrorist acts. In most cases, unless I knew for sure my water source was clean I would shut my water off and use what remains in the pipes and hot water heater. Most hot water heaters are around the forty gallon size and that’s enough for two people to survive for around twenty days at a moderate temperature (most survival experts suggest a gallon a day in mild temperatures, though you can survive on less if you do not eat).

If you are forced to use emergency drinking water from an unknown source at any time, (streams, ponds or lakes) you will have to purify it before drinking. Try to get water from a fast moving source, river or stream, and avoid water that has a bad smell, has scum on it, or is obviously polluted in some way. There are four ways most folks purify water and though they all work to various degrees there are only two suggested by the Canadian Red Cross.

Water can be boiled for 3 to 5 minutes and then allowed to cool before drinking. This boiled water will have a very flat taste and this is because the process removes most of the air from the water as it boils. To improve the taste, take two containers and pour the water between them to mix air with the treated water.

Another highly suggested method is to add 16 drops of household bleach to a gallon of water, but do not use colorsafe bleach, scented bleach, or bleach with any additional cleaners in it. Once you have added the drops of bleach stir the water very well and then let it sit for thirty minutes. When you smell the treated water it should have a slight bleach smell and if it does not, repeat the process and let the water sit for an additional fifteen minutes.

There are two other methods that old timers might use and neither is recommended by the American or Canadian Red Cross. Those that camp or backpack a great deal may decide to use a drinking straw (filter) or water purification tablets and while both work to a degree, neither are one hundred percent safe to use. This, according to the Red Cross, is because the only safe way to treat water is by boiling or using bleach. Neither the drinking straw nor water purification tablets contain a 5.25 percent of sodium hypochlorite, which kills all the micro critters in our emergency drinking water. I suggest we be safe and use the bleach.

After the water problem has been taken care of we should give our food situation some serious thought. First, if you do not have sufficient water (a gallon a day) cut back on your food intake and if you have no water at all do not eat. This is because if you do eat and are dehydrated, your body will use what fluids it has stored to process waste, so water is very important. Second, with a limited water intake avoid salty foods, foods high in fats and proteins, and foods that require water to prepare. Remember that most of us can survive for up to two weeks without any food at all, if we are in good physical condition. But, even if you have plenty of water, there are still some things you must consider.

Your goal, if you can achieve it, is to find foods that are high in calories, because in a survival situation you’ll burn calories much faster than normal. You also want foods that require no refrigeration, little or no preparation, and no cooking. Keep in mind that almost all canned foods require no cooking or water to prepare, so after you eat all the perishables in the fridge and freezer, go for the canned foods.

If you are unsure about how long your various food stuffs are good for, here are some basic guidelines for rotating common emergency foods from the Red Cross.

Use within six months:

• Powdered milk (boxed)

• Dried fruit (in metal container)

• Dry, crisp crackers (in metal container)

• Potatoes

Use within one year:

• Canned condensed meat and vegetable soups

• Canned fruits, fruit juices and vegetables

• Ready-to-eat cereals and uncooked instant cereals (in metal containers)

• Peanut butter

• Jelly

• Hard candy and canned nuts

• Vitamin C

May be stored indefinitely (in proper containers and conditions):

• Wheat

• Vegetable oils

• Dried corn

• Baking powder

• Soybeans

• Instant coffee, tea and cocoa

• Salt

• Noncarbonated soft drinks

• White rice

• Bouillon products

• Dry pasta

• Powdered milk (in nitrogen-packed cans)

If you have doubts on the safety of a canned product, check to see if it has a “use by” or “best by” date printed or stamped on it. If there is no date, the product should be discarded after six months. I keep dry beans on hand, because they are an excellent source of protein (if you have the water to cook them) and they can be stored indefinitely if sealed containers are used and they are kept in a cool and dry place.

Recommended foods (by the Red Cross) include:

• Ready-to-eat canned meats, fruits and vegetables. (Be sure to include a manual can opener)

• Canned juices, milk and soup (if powdered, store extra water).

• High energy foods, such as peanut butter, jelly, crackers, granola bars and trail mix.

• Comfort foods, such as hard candy, sweetened cereals, candy bars and cookies.

• Instant coffee, tea bags.

• Foods for infants, elderly persons or persons on special diets, if necessary.

• Compressed food bars. They store well, are lightweight, taste good and are nutritious.

• Trail mix. It is available as a prepackaged product or you can assemble it on your own.

• Dried foods. They can be nutritious and satisfying, but have some have a lot of salt content, which promotes thirst. Read the label.

• Freeze-dried foods. They are tasty and lightweight, but will need water for reconstitution.

• Instant Meals. Cups of noodles or cups of soup are a good addition, although they need water for reconstitution.

• Snack-sized canned goods. Good because they generally have pull-top lids or twist-open keys.

• Prepackaged beverages. Those in foil packets and foil-lined boxes are suitable because they are tightly sealed and will keep for a long time.

Food Options to Avoid:

• Commercially dehydrated foods. They can require a great deal of water for reconstitution and extra effort in preparation.

• Bottled foods. They are generally too heavy and bulky, and break easily.

• Meal-sized canned foods. They are usually bulky and heavy.

• Whole grains, beans, pasta. Preparation could be complicated under the circumstances of a disaster.

In a natural disaster or emergency situation most rescues will occur within a few days or things will simply get back to normal, unless the situation is widespread or there has been a heavy loss of life. Keep in mind that most of us have sufficient food in our cupboards, refrigerator or freezer to survive for a week or two, so concentrate your efforts on water procurement. Rotate your water supplies ever six months and remember the alternate places to find water, as well as the various treatment methods to insure it’s safe to drink. Also keep a close eye on how long you’ve have your food stuffs in storage and rotate your foods so you always use the oldest foods first.

Having Bugs as a Dinner Guest

Copyright 2010 by Gary L. Benton

As you may suspect, there are many ways of preparing and cooking food procured in the wild. Often, we get lucky and bag a rabbit, or perhaps a squirrel. Yep, I know all about making Apache foot snares (often used for deer) and huge figure four traps, but lets be honest here, the odds are remote that you will feed on venison or bear in a survival situation. Most game procured will be small game, unless you have a gun along. It you have a gun and lot’s of game in the area, then this article isn’t for you. Most of us will have to settle for less for dinner.

When we enter “nature’s supermarket”, most of us may be lost in more ways than one. The foods we are used to seeing just aren’t there. Or, at least they don’t look the same way we would expect them to look. Keep in mind, many of the foods we now purchase were once, and may still be, wild in the woods. What do you know about vegetables? Do you know that certain vegetables grow under ground and some on top of the ground? Nonetheless, many folks have no idea what is eatable and what isn’t once they leave the house.

 

I suggest you do some research and find out as much about wilderness food procurement as you can. There are many good books out there and lots of great web sites on wild foods. I also recommend that you buy and carry a good survival manual, either the USAF Aircrew Survival Pamphlet or the SAS Survival Guide. Both publications have information on how to identify poisonous and non-poisonous plants. And, since it is very likely that the most common things in the bush will supply a large portion of our “wilderness diet”, lets look at wilderness food sources a little closer.

 

If it is not winter, you may be able to rustle up a nice meal of insects. They are usually out in abundance and all we have to do is gather them up. What? You don’t like the idea of eating bugs? Common sense tells us that insects are usually there, we are hungry, so, why not get together for a meal? Now, I have to admit, bugs aren’t my favorite meal, but they can help keep you alive.

 

Insects are very rich in fat and protein, of which both are important to the survivor (click on my nutrition page to see why). While many insects may be eaten raw, most people prefer them cooked (in some cases, like ants, cooking should be done to remove poisons). I personally think the best way to cook them is to add them to a “survival stew”, which is a just a mix of all the various things you were able to find that day. On the larger insects, remove the wings and legs. I suggest you do this so the sharp spines on the legs don’t injure your throat, or cause you to choke while swallowing. I do not recommend the beginner bite into an insect. It is sorta like a candy filled with a special middle, but without the great taste. It is important to consider the fact that most of our aversion to the eating of insects is cultural and psychological. In many cultures insects are eaten regularly.

 

Insects can be found under rocks, inside of dead logs, obviously on anthills, and in nooks and crannies. Be extra careful when looking for insects, because snakes, scorpions and other biting or stinging critters like to stay in the same places. Wear gloves if you have them and use caution while shopping for dinner. Avoid placing your hands in dark hole or other places you cannot see. Make noise, and keep your eyes scanning from side to side to avoid snakes.

 

If you happen to see a snake, very carefully kill it with a large rock or long stick. Then carefully cut the head off (the head and fangs are still dangerous even when removed from the body), gut it lengthwise, skin it, and cut it into cubes. At that point I suggest it be added to the stew pot for the day. I usually bury a poisonous snakes head in a hole at lest 12” deep. That keeps others from stepping on the head, which still contains the fangs and poison. If you are unsure if the snake is poisonous or not, then treat it at all times as if it is poisonous. And, yes, both poisonous and non-poisonous snakes can be safely eaten.

 

Now, back to insects. Avoid any insects that are found in animal carcasses, dung, or trash. They may carry diseases or parasites. Also, any insect you see that has a bright body color, or is hairy, try to avoid. Some may be eaten, but many are poisonous. It is easier to remember to just avoid them, than try to identify those that are safe to eat. You should be able to find plenty of worms, ants, grasshoppers, and other bugs to make a meal.

 

Lets look at the big three…Worms, Ants and Grasshoppers. Worms may be eaten raw or cooked. I suggest you rinse them off to avoid getting the sand or dirt grit in your teeth. Do not confuse worms with grubs, and there is a difference. Some grubs, especially those found on the underside of leaves, may contain toxins. I would suggest you avoid them. But, worms can be dried, crushed, and then added to soups. Or, just eaten raw.

Ants, on the other hand, may have a painful bite (formic acid). However, by cooking them for about six or seven minutes the toxins are destroyed. Then, they may be eaten as is, or added to soups. There is only real problem with this readily available food source, is it takes a whole lot of ants to make a meal. However, they do add protein and fat to your diet. Keep in mind; even the huge grizzly bear eats them.

 

Grasshoppers can be knocked from the air with a shirt, fishing net, or with a piece of cloth. Remember to remove the wings, antennae, and legs before eating them. I suggest they be placed on a flat rock near the fire and cooked. Or, if you have a pot, pan, skillet, or an empty can, roast them in the container. Once cooked, they may be added to soups or stews. Some people prefer to crush them and dry them into a powder before eating them. The method you use is up to you. Of course, some people are capable of sitting around a campfire late at night eating them raw as you might eat potato chips. I have not been able to overcome, completely anyway, my squeamishness of eating raw grasshoppers. But, if I had to eat them to survive, bring on the meal.

 

Whether you know it or not, you may be eating insects, or parts of insects, every day. You just aren’t aware of it. Most food companies have guidelines that detail the allowable percentage of insects in their product. I am not telling you this to gross you out, but stating the facts. Does it make a difference to your body if you know about the insect you ingest or not?

 

When you consider the nutritional value of insects to a survivor, we would have to be complete fools not to add them to the dining menu. I will be the first to admit, they are not the most appetizing, but they do serve a purpose. That purpose is keeping you alive until you are rescued.

Bon Appetite

How to Select a Good Survival Knife

One aspect survival that many of us never look at very closely is where we buy our equipment for outdoor use or the purpose of our gear. Granted, most of the outdoor stuff offered in surplus stores is a bargain and it has years of hard testing behind it, but is it always a good deal? Often, in the long run, some of the gear purchased from military surplus stores may not be the best of quality, when compared to the same type of commercial product. Oh, I still buy my Battle Dress Uniforms (BDU's), canteens, ALCE packs, web gear, and most of my general field gear at a surplus store, because they are hard to beat for general field use and for the price. But, what about something that is very important to a survivor and in some cases a key player in a survival situation? What about survival knives?

Survival knives are available in many different designs, construction materials, features, and costs. For those of us who buy from military surplus stores the big four are the United States Air Force aircrew survival knife, the United States Marines Corps K-bar knife, the hollow handle "specialized" survival knife, and a good quality sheath knife.

Most good surplus stores will have all four of these knives available and each of them has individual strengths and weaknesses. Let's look at each of these knifes in more detail.

The USAF aircrew survival knife has been around for years. When I entered the Air Force in 1970 one was issued to me at my first duty assignment and I was told it had been around since World War Two. It has not changed much since its original design, with the exception of the sheath. To me that says two very important things, first the knife has a proven past performance in the field and second, the knife's design might be outdated and may no longer be the best knife for current survival situations.

Now, before all of you military veteran's (especially Vietnam vets) jump on the soapbox, let me say, I carried the aircrew survival knife for over twelve years and I have used it under some extreme field conditions many times. It is a good knife and does what it was designed to do, keep you alive as you attempt to survive for a short period of time. But, the U.S. military knows that most survivors are rescued within forty-eight hours, so honestly, how long do you think the knife will last as an extended use skinning knife, field knife, or survival knife? Not very long, I suspect. The air crew survival knife currently sells for around forty-five dollars in many surplus stores (in some stores it may go for more or less).

Now, if you are determined to purchase this knife, let's go over a couple of considerations before you lay your hard earned money down. I have carried this knife in arctic survival training, mountain survival training, water survival training, and during jungle survival training. Additionally, I often used it on my job as a Life Support Instructor. I found the wet stone to be of poor quality, which made it very difficult to quickly re-sharpen the edge on knife. The knife blade itself, which is made of 1095 carbon steel and has a black phosphate coating (to keep the blade from shinning at night and to aid in camouflage), was difficult to sharpen as well. It seemed to me that the coating on the blade made putting an edge to the blade very frustrating (first I had to get past the coating to reach the steel blade. Then again, it may just have been me, but I do know how to properly sharpen a blade. I just didn't have hours to sit around and re-sharpen a blade, so this knife did not impress me much. I also felt the knife edge didn't last very long. And, never once in my career did I ever see anyone seriously use the saw teeth on the top of the blade for anything constructive (though I am sure there are uses for it)

None the less, the knife comes in two types of leather sheaths, a metal covered sheath tip and the uncovered sheath tip. The uncovered sheath tip is potentially dangerous, as the tip of the knife can (and I have seen it happen) penetrate the leather and cause an injury. Avoid this knife design without a metal tip on the sheath, because it is either very old (we got issued the metal tipped sheaths, I think, in the mid 1970's, though it might have been a little earlier) or it is a cheap import model.

Additionally, a word of warning, the tip on this knife is not very strong and I have seen many with the tips broken off following roughed field use. Where they abused? More than likely they were, after all it was demanding survival training, but in my opinion the blade tip is very thin and too pointed anyway. I also saw more than one with the blade broken at the hand guard, once again most likely the use of abuse.

Well, what about everyone's favorite survival knife the USMC K-bar knife? I was issued a couple of these knives at different times in the mid 1970's and while I loved the design and the battlefield history of the knife (WWII, Korea , and Vietnam ) I found the K-bar to be too big and difficult for me to use for most field tasks. I prefer a smaller blade than the large seven inch blade on the old military issue K-bar. Keep in mind, this knife was never intended to be a survival knife, but rather a knife to kill with by stabbing. It is actually considered by many military members and survival professionals as an assault knife, not a survival knife. However, if you do an online search, K-bar will come up as a survival knife.

The blade on a government issue K-bar is longer and thinner than the USAF survival knife (there are commercial K-bars with shorter blades available) and that feature is to allow deeper penetration when stabbing. The K-bar blade is also made of 1095 carbon steel with an epoxy coated finish (to reduce shine and aid in camouflage) and the sheath is re-enforced with metal rivets at six locations. This knife does not have a metal sheath tip cover, which could cause injuries during falls. And, yep, I found it hard to sharpen and to keep an edge on as well, but then again I strongly dislike all coated knife blades. Oh, and I have seen some K-bar's sharp enough to shave with, but I just didn't want to spend that much time working on a blade. However, once you pick up a K-bar you will love the way it feels in your hand, because it feels like an extension of your arm. That, my friends, indicates a very solid and well built knife design. But, honestly, there are better knives, in my opinion, on the market these days and for about the same price, at around fifty dollars.

Now, let's look at those hollow handled "specialized" knifes on the market today. Buyer beware is my first advice. I know of at least a dozen different designs and probably double that many different qualities of steel used in the various blade construction as well. I have seen imported versions of these knives priced as low as $4.99 (are we talking quality here or what?) and as high as $150 ( may be a better choice), so you have a wide selection to choose from.

The steel used in these blades are some of the biggest mixed matched bunch on the market (from very low carbon content to high content) and I suggest you pay very close attention when considering one of these knives. I prefer a good 440C stainless (or stain-less as they should be named, because they will stain) that is easy to sharpen and it keeps a good edge. But, some of the blades on these specialized knives won't take an edge with an electric grinder (I know a grinder will ruin a good blade, but some of these cheap blades can't be ruined because they already are)! Many of the sheaths are of very thin leather with out any reinforcement on the sheath, which could lead to injuries.

Most of the hollow handled knives on the market now and those sold a few years ago where purchased because they looked neat (or were seen in action packed movies), not because they served any real practical function. I am not saying there are no hollow handled knives of quality out there, because I have seen more than just a few. My biggest complain with the knife design is why? Why do we need a knife (which can be dropped unknowingly from a sheath or lost when it is placed down some place) designed to carry our survival gear in a hollow handle. Keep in mind, if you lose the knife your survival gear goes with it. And, the amount of gear in the handles of these knives could be easier carried in a shirt pocket or your wallet. The contents typically consists of,

• Compass, which is fitted into the butt of the knife (wonder how accurate that will remain after a few days of rough field usage?)

• A few wooden matches in a small plastic bag

• 3 or 4 fish hooks with line (maybe a couple of lead sinkers)

• A cheap metal wire saw

• Some have a small piece of flint, band-aids (very small), and maybe a needle or two, a perhaps other small items

The concept is basically good, but with the market flooded with cheap imitations, it is difficult at best for the average outdoors person to separate quality from trash. Additionally, I have always disliked items that are designed to be half of one thing and half of another (is it a survival kit, or a knife?). Why? Because most items designed to perform two functions usually end up not doing either aspect of the design extremely well.

The contents of the hollow knife is sparse at best when it comes to survival gear and a person would be hard pressed to survive using just the contained equipment alone. I suggest you prepare (not buy a commercial model) a kit that contains what you think is needed or go by a suggested list by a survival professional. A survival kit does not have to be large and a small one can easily fit into a small fanny pack. The U.S. Air Force suggests as a minimum your survival kit contain the following items (and no knife can store this much gear in the hollow handle),

• Insect repellent (available at most sporting goods sections)

• A lotion or oil for your skin (usually found in the home)

• Chapstick to keep your lips in good shape (usually found in the home)

• A small first aid kit (found in most sporting goods sections)

• Water purification tablets (in most sporting goods sections or military surplus, but check the expiration date closely)

• Band-Aids (usually found in the home)

• About fifty feet of parachute 550 cord (military surplus).

• Small throw away sun shades (sporting goods departments)

• Fuel tablets for a quick fire start (found in both sporting goods sections and military surplus stores)

• A small disposable patients examination light (sporting goods sections or some of your larger military surplus stores)

• A good quality small multi-bladed knife (any place that sells knives)

• A metal match with striker (for fire starting and found in either sporting goods or military surplus)

• Plumbers candle (hardware section of most department stores)

• A roll of electrical tape (hardware section of most department stores)

• A whistle (sporting goods and military surplus)

• Small signal mirror (sporting goods and military surplus)

• A variety of fishing snaps and swivels, but stay away from commercial fishing kits because usually most of the contents are for saltwater fish (sporting goods and military surplus)

• Two (2) boxes of coated matches, somewhat water-proof, (sporting goods and military surplus)

• Flint or a magnesium strip for fire starting (sporting goods and military surplus)

• A large sheet of heavy duty aluminum foil cooking, boiling, or for signaling (found in almost any store)

• About fifty (50) feet of thin brass wire for snares (sporting goods, hardware sections, and military surplus)

• Fishing line, I would suggest between 2 and 6 pound test because most of the fish caught will be small (sporting goods and military surplus)

• Four (4) safety pins (sewing section of most department stores)

• A dozen hooks in assorted sizes, but concentrate on smaller sizes (sporting goods and military surplus)

• Four needles of assorted sizes with thread and be sure to thread one of the needles before hand so it can be used in an emergency quickly (sewing section of most stores)

• A large bandage, a trick here, many military members will carry a woman's Kotex pad (sanitary napkin) or two and they work great! (just about any store)

• Needle nose pliers (hardware section of most stores)

• Miscellaneous personal (items can be packed in an old 35MM film canister or small plastic baby bottle and they will be water-proof)

• A fanny pack or an old fishing vest will hold all of these items and still have room for a couple of packs of dehydrated soups, some hard candy, and other dried or powdered food items you may desire (sporting goods, grocery stores, and military surplus).

While the knives I discussed above all have good as well as bad traits, any one of them may keep you alive if you have to use it, as long as your experience is not a long ordeal. But, what knife would I personally suggest and want in the field? Selecting a knife for emergency use is not like picking a knife for hunting trips or a pocket knife for small camp chores. A survival knife should be designed with one purpose in mind, keeping you alive until you are rescued. To me that means a strong carbon steel blade (strong and takes a good edge quickly), good solid construction (tough for the field), a comfortable feel and a nice balance to the whole knife (these are all good points for extended use survival knives). I would suggest you stay away from knives with thin and very pointed tips (designed for stabbing and may break under rougher survival conditions) and go with a more blunt point. Just about any well designed and high quality knife made of good carbon steel can serve as a survival field knife.

My favorite field and survival knife has a small four inch blade and I suggest you keep the blade to around the four or five inch length, because they are easier to handle and use in the bush for a wide variety of chores (I have field dressed everything from rabbits to moose with my knife and then used it to make a shelter). Additionally, look for a strong hand guard that will resist bending or breaking under rough usage, and a handle with a butt that is built tough and is attached solid. Be sure the knife feels comfortable and balanced in your hand. You can expect to pay around fifty dollars (some can cost hundreds of dollars) for a good general purpose sheath knife that will perform well in the field as a survival knife. But, once again I have to strongly suggest you stay away from cheap imports that may use poor quality materials and even poorer construction standards. After all, how much is your life worth?

Military surplus knives have a long history and often copied by cheap knife makers in third world countries because the U.S. military combat designs are proven money makers. However, consider the simple fact that military knives may be years behind in design and may lack the technological advances currently used by better knife manufacturers in construction of new products (but, then again, if it's not broke don't fix it comes to mind and I think it all boils down to individual choice after some serious considering).

The military does purchase excellent quality knives for extended and continuous use, but usually only for specialized career fields (riggers, pararescue, combat controllers, etc.) or for special missions.

However, the military uses their basic issue survival knives because they are inexpensive (made by the lowest bidder) and only have to perform for a limited time (usually less than 48 hours). I know from experience, all survival components once used or even those carried during an actual survival situation by U.S. Air Force members are condemned and discarded after the survivor returns to the base. To me that clearly indicates the components were designed with one time usage in mind, or that the gear may have defects from survival usage that are difficult to see and the components may no longer be dependable.

Survival knives, there are thousands on the market and many are good quality products and are sold in military surplus stores. Just remember, once in the field the knife you carry with you will be the only survival knife you have on hand. Pick a survival knife that you can rely on, is well made, is strong enough for rough field use, and is the best you can afford. After all, your life may depend on it.